Want to learn firsthand how they make delicious artisanal cheeses in the Picos de Europa mountains? Keep reading!
We continue our travels and visits to new friends in the world of cheese. This time, our destination was Tresviso, in the heart of the Picos de Europa National Park, to see firsthand the only Cantabrian cheeses made within a Biosphere Reserve. My good friend Ramón Puchades , a great cheese enthusiast and avid mountaineer, accompanied me. He thoroughly enjoyed the scenery and took the photos that accompany this article. Many thanks, Ramonet!
HIGH-ALTITUDE CHEESES
The aim of this trip was to visit the Javier Campo Cheese Factory firsthand. I had long wanted to visit this artisanal cheese factory, which had always been highly recommended by Guillermina Sánchez , our personal spiritual guide. Javier Campo's cheeses are frequent finalists in the Gourmet Awards (best cheeses in Spain) and have won awards in several regional, national, and international competitions, most notably the Gold and Bronze Awards at the 2023 World Cheese Awards for their PDO Bejes - Tresviso (picón), Cerréu (smoked), and Alpasto (cured) cheeses.
Heading to Tresviso (Cantabria), in the heart of the Picos de Europa mountains. A spectacular setting!
Javier Campo's cows graze freely in this area. The barn can be seen from the cheese factory itself.
I had the opportunity to meet César Campo at an event in Madrid last year, but I was eager to see his work and that of his father. César embodies the new generation committed to rural life. It's clear he loves it and enjoys it; his gaze and expression reveal a passion for his land! Along with César, we were greeted by his father and the driving force behind the project, Javier Campo, who told us the story of their cheeses, emphasizing the production process and the grazing practices they employ.
GRASS, MILK, CHEESE. IN THAT ORDER
The Campo family makes cheese from raw milk from their own herd of grazing cows, which can be seen from the dairy. In fact, their motto is "Pasture, Milk, Cheese. In that order." And we certainly saw how they put it into practice to the letter in their facilities. This dairy leaves a mark of quality that lingers because their processes are artisanal, yet incredibly meticulous. You can tell when you taste their cheeses and appreciate their exquisite balance. We were able to witness firsthand how they carry out the various stages of cheesemaking, from curdling and draining the whey to cutting, molding, and salting… it was a true lesson in wisdom and expertise!
We witnessed every stage of raw milk curdling, cutting, and whey drainage…
This is what the cooked pasta looks like after the process
Marcelo, attentively watching Javier's masterclass . Below, the molding and salting stages.
Specifically, their Picón PDO Bejes - Tresviso cheese is a native blue cheese from the Picos de Europa mountains, matured in a natural cave where the temperature ranges between 10 and 12 degrees Celsius, with a humidity of 90 to 95%. Cave maturation lasts two months, enough time for the cheese to reach its ideal point: intense and silky, perfectly balanced, without being astringent, with a very subtle sweet and mushroomy note.
FROM THE MOUNTAIN TO YOUR TABLE
Our visits to cheese dairies allow us to get to know the producers firsthand and learn about their cheesemaking methods, so we can then share all sorts of details about the cheese board we serve at your table when you visit La Carbonera . It's always important to recognize the work of these people and remember that behind these delicacies are real people. In this case, it's also a prime example of generational succession, which is always fantastic news!
The aging cave, where César explained to us how cheeses acquire their final properties
All that's left is for you to savor this marvel... come and try it at La Carbonera!
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From Routes and Wines: Burgundy
At La Carbonera: Martín Rosberg